It's the end of hot August. Schools will soon wake up from the summer dream, the peak of the tourist season is behind us. The ideal time for a trip.
Selection destinations It's not accidental.
Within the project “insulae“, Damir, a member of the four, has already visited the island several times and explored it extensively. After his recounted impressions, we looked for an opportunity to visit him together.
Accommodation we book in the apartment, and tickets for catamaran We buy from Rijeka online.
Day 1
We sail out at 17:00, so we should start early from home to avoid Rijeka traffic jams. The catamaran is not far away, but under the weight of luggage and the heat of the sun, and this route seems long. We carry food and drink, as far as our muscles allow. The well-known fear of high island prices is also under our skin. ⁇
Cevapi from butcher's shop Čučković they are in a mobile, retro refrigerator from the 70s of the last century. They're on the menu for the first island lunch. Their company makes three bottles of red wine of uneven quality that we plan to drink from top to table. Of course, beer for refreshment after unloading and pasta with sauces for some further meals.
Catamaran
A large number of passengers are waiting to enter. The order is non-existent, so we “organise” ourselves. Tickets don't have a reservation, so we sit by the window, on the front where the engine is less heard.
The sun loses its power with the arrival of the evening, and the strong air conditioning transforms the catamaran into a refrigerator. Long sleeves come in handy. At the stops in the town of Cres and in Martinšćica we do not miss stretching the legs and warming up on the deck.
On the island
We are in front of the Unions after 3 hours of pleasant driving. We're landing on a new pier. The crew of the catamaran provides passengers who disembark more than friendly assistance with luggage. Gulling isn't extinct. ⁇
But we will continue without help, on foot to the apartment. We weren't greeted by our grandfathers on the tractor, nor by our grandmothers with a smile.
Step by step, with each metro ascent the view of the sea is more beautiful, worth every drop of sweat. The suitcases have wheels, and the fridge has the treatment of a precious treasure chest, so we have no problems with the ascent.
“Our” house of turquoise facade is at the top of the hill. The spacious apartment has 3 rooms with comfortable beds, no air conditioning, 2 bathrooms and a kitchen. He's neat and clean, but without a soul. There is no TV and no air conditioning, but we do not need these devices. We're here for nature, the sea, the sun, socializing.
We are too tired for optimistically planned activities on the first day, so we postpone them until the next day. With a refreshing evening breeze, we indulge in conversation, food and drinks on the terrace “with the most beautiful view”.
Day 2
We enjoy the peace of the morning, the silence is occasionally interrupted by the voice of the pheasants from the neighborhood. Boats and catamarans are precise enough for the summer scheme of life. We don't need a watch.
A sunny and hot day is ahead of us, and an ambitious plan is to visit the northern part of the island.
Maračol bay
Concrete path behind the house leads us to Maračol bay. Along the trail to the left, on the very hill there is a chapel of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary built in 1932.
Along the path to the right are the ruins of the former pilchard and squid processing factory.
Today the bay is just anchorage for boats.
We continue our walk along the macadam road that leads over the bridge, and then uphill the path of the northern part of the island. Challenges are about to begin. ⁇
We are no longer sure where we need to go, we go into thickets, we fight with branches and briers. And the blood came out. On the trees we notice tentative marks. We're on the right track! Must be Survivol's adventurer. After an almost impassable journey, we finally reach the desired goal.
We're at the top of Goligna Bay. And while we're here, we need to get down to the sea and take a bath. That way we'll get back easier. We hope so. The same road awaits us on our way back. And our drinking water is at a minimum... ⁇
Scratched, bloody, dehydrated, barely getting our hands on the apartment.
....
We're splitting up this afternoon. Some are resting, others are going to the place.
Giorgio by place
No matter the charming alleys, bays, beaches. There's no car. In addition to our own legs, we register that island mobility is supported by tractors, (electric) bicycles, (child) carriages, donkeys and horses.
Ruined and sadly empty houses tell us that many have left the island. No wonder the school is closed.
Day 3
In the morning we will again take the path of Maračol Bay, but today's route is much shorter, safer, and precisely marked with signs. We turn left towards the big rocks and cape Hartina. Bunkers and underground corridors are silent witnesses of turbulent times. From there, we'll go downhill to the village.
At the bakery, we order pizzas for early lunch, and continue walking towards the airport and the southernmost point of the island.
There's a herd of cows near here with a bull that occasionally weaves us off. Caution is the mother of wisdom. Who knows what's going on in his head. We'll take a detour along the coast. There used to be fertile fields here, but if there were no goats, sheep, rabbits, today it would all be an impassable thicket.
Along the way, the olive groves are poorly fertile. After 5 km we arrive at Cape Arbit. We're going to the reconnaissance, but it's like we can't do it anymore. It's too hot to explore, we're going back the same way. We encircled ourselves and shortened our return along the route closer to the “standing bull”.
Due to inadequate footwear, there were also vicious blisters on the feet. P.S. Healed. ⁇
Lighthouse Vnetak
After lunch, we went to the lighthouse Vnetak. Hour of work, back and forth. A bit of mature male and female nudity is sunbathing along the coastal promenade. We do not publish FKK photos. ⁇
Lighthouse The shepherd's shed is full of their feces. We hope that, in addition, it performs its primary function for which it was built.
In the evening, a short walk around the place and a visit to the exhibition “ETHNOGRAPHIC COLLECTION KARNIŠ“.
Day 4
The return to Rijeka is planned by catamaran in the early afternoon. Enough time for a part of the team to visit the bay “Sridnja” after the morning coffee.
What a clear sea! No one, no peace, no silence. ⁇ ⁇ ⁇
Pleasant with useful -> whenever we can practice plogging. We have collected a nice amount of garbage that we have disposed of in the proper way, but there is still some along the way. ⁇
Returning to the river is a routine. The catamaran is crowded.
It rains in the river, it rains... and it sows. ⁇ ⁇
Experiences and advice:
Apartment reservation – be careful if booked per room or per person (desirable written record of the agreement). There are no hotels on the board. We paid 250,00 kn (33,18 Eur) per room/per day.
Catamaran - the price is 63,00 kn (8,36 Eur) in one direction. The best seats in summer are in the middle. It transports people, animals, luggage as much as your hands carry.
Trade – the offer is solid, the prices are peppery, the cards are not accepted. Opening hours two-time.
Bakery – an excellent offer of bakery products and other necessities. Although it is open two times, the friendly owner bakes pizzas to order whenever you want.
Catering facility - the only one, at Joza's. He's not getting a good reputation, so we bypassed him.
Pastry shop – an excellent selection of ice creams and cakes, but our base was Barabar.
Bar Barbara – offers a diverse range of cold and hot drinks, ice creams, snacks, excellent music. The most beautiful place to watch the sunset. Be sure to spend a couple of hours a day! ⁇
The island is hidden from the bustle and mass tourism, without the noise of the car. Ideal for those who enjoy walking, nature, silence.
And that's why, as soon as possible at the Union!
Unije, Unije, small island
In the middle of the sea cano swan....
Sonja Kraljević
English (UK)