Autumn is advanced, so the morning cold is already pinching the picnic cheeks. Departure before 9 a.m. would not be pleasant for the spirit or the body. We don't need to rush because our first stop is Šušnjevica, Ćićarija region.
We are close to the house, but we are going through the Učka tunnel, so the road the Vlaški puti Eco-museum.
Google mistakenly "leads" us to the local church. We look around, the tablet or the cure. We're spinning because it's got to be around here somewhere. The local Croatian does not understand, but’ in Italian, he tells us ‘đu, đu’ and shows us the direction to take with his hands.
The village is long, very tame, urbanistic (yet) not disturbed by harmony. But the occupants are few. Empty, abandoned houses to spare. Vapes for renewal.
Here we are at the museum. The host is friendly and accommodating, at the end of the tour we accept the offered coffee.
About the museum...
It is located in the building of the school where only 4 schoolchildren are taught today.
Of course, the building was renovated with the help of EU funds. ⁇ The historical presence of Istro-Romanians in this region is the reason that the Embassy of Romania made a modest financial donation for reconstruction.
This is a small space, but quite enough to accommodate an interpretation center and a media library. A real bonbon!
She is also a leader and a lover of her homeland. Today, one of the few who speaks Istro-Romanian. With rumors, it is said, without translators, they do not understand.
The language is in extinction, but it will surely “live” while it is a museum. And there will be history, culture, a reminder of the life of this region. And he wasn't lightweight at all.
It sounds unbelievable where they went, how they managed, what they did and which paths were taken by contrabands, or smugglers, to help feed their families.
The paths of the contraband can still be used today. The guide points us to a path that begins right here, around the corner. Let's take a peek, but we have set ourselves a different route for today, something easier.
the Boljun Region
A reserved table for four awaits us in the Boljun tavern at 14:30, so for today's 10 km we need an accelerated step.
Nature is enchanting. Relaxes the view of the leaves in colorful, extinguished autumn colors.
Paladins, Kurelići, Kurevčija, are just some of the villages we pass through. They are made up of one or only a few houses. They are poorly populated, but the barking of dogs echoes next to the houses.
We are used to it, but we are not a free pack of about 10 dogs that surrounded us. Boss's not responding. Pepper sprey is on hand. ⁇
They are harmless, trained to search for truffles. He shows us the master of today’s “catch”. For a small ball he says he can get 15 euros.
The Polish road leads us to the spring Studenac. It's built in a cottage. Outside him washer.
We do not even want to know what the old bellies would tell us about their anguish if we complained to them about our present veil and 3 “washed” machines of goods. ⁇
Boljun
Just as we imagined, we have free time before lunch just for a short walk through its alleys.
The castle, church, Glagolitic inscriptions indicate great importance throughout history. And from the top of the hill, panoramic view of Učka and the Boljunčica valley.
Boljun tavern
We pass under the volt and enter through a small door taverns. The only one in town today. In the fireplace fire, on the walls antique items. Pleasant, homely atmosphere.
We're rushing the order because the waiter says they're expecting a crowd.
And while we're waiting, we should have a toast with great Teran and biska. The food is delicious, al’ pancakes stuffed with curd and honey are top. Best ever!
Belaj
This Turkism is used for trouble, when something is evil and upside down. But here it gets a completely different meaning. Um, maybe splendour and good wine? ⁇ ⁇
Castle is in the process of renewal. Interestingly, the castle was bought in 2012 by Russian financier Oleg Belay. He liked it, and it also bears his last name.
Beautiful coexistence of the castle and the winery. And in front of them endless vineyards. The nobles knew how to enjoy it!
Being here, and not trying the wine, would be a true “belaj”. The dec black, the dec white. White wins ⁇
Kaštel Possert
The night has begun to descend, we can still visit one place. We're parked at the foot of Paz.
There is no light, so like this in the half-tide castle Looks terrifying. But our brave member turns on his cell phone and doesn't give up. We'll follow him.
Enough for today.
We enjoyed immensely, our feeling is best described by Gibonni's verses:
“how to describe it, I can't out of luck di-sa-ti“!
Very light, almost beginner's route. We follow the local roads, we are in a forest environment all the time. The final section – the ascent to Boljun along the forest path – is more demanding, but the slope is not too large, so it is easy to overcome.
English (UK)